The Appian Way itself was beautiful enough to make up for this, however. As it leaves the city proper of Rome the road is paved, alternately with the wide, famous stones of the ancient Romans and more recent cobblestones. Villas give way to fields as the walk progressed, and soon we were passing weathered Roman watchtowers and grassy tombs. In this photograph one can see the ancient paving and wheel marks as well as get a sense of how STRAIGHT the road is.
We shared the Appian Way with bicyclists and joggers for several miles until we passed far away from civilization, and then we had the sun-dappled stones all to ourselves. After sneaking through a closed reconstruction zone, we emerged back onto the familiar road until it was bisected by a busy thoroughfare and afterwards shrank to a simple goat track through lush grass and berry brambles (with the indestructible ancient paving stones peering periodically through moss and wild phlox). The wide road eventually re-appeared just before the road ended at an outdoor market. The walk had taken approximately 4.5 hours, and we arrived home just before sunset.
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